The 18th arrondisement in Paris is probably not to everyone's taste.
Straddling the Pigalle and Montmartre as well as sitting at the nexus of the
North African quarter, the 18th is the loud, artistic, rapscallion cousin to
some of the more refined and touristy arrondisements of Paris. Hang out
at the chaotic open-air market on the weekend near the station or prowl
Tati for a bargain, go to the Musée d'Art Naïf (Halle Saint-Pierre - 2, rue Ronsard)
to check out some naive and folk art - don't forget the small bookshop inside the
gallery entrance.
You'll get a wicked cous-cous, North African-style in this area as well as some
charming Parisian bistrots that don't try too hard.
Don't eat where
your guidebook dictates, mooch around until the planets are aligned above your
restaurant of choice. Gut instinct always wins out over pompous proslethetysing
from guide books.
And then there are the fabric shops.
Lord have mercy. If for no other reason, come for these and these alone.
Marche St Pierre - 2, Rue Charles Nodier
The oldest, the largest, the greatest. This place is set out over 5 levels with virtual
football fields of fabrics and haberdashery on each floor. You will see men and
women marching about with long rulers in hand. Do NOT get in their way, they
will mow you down as soon as look at you and whatever you do, don't (as I did)
take fabric from one floor to another. This is heresy punishable by death if you
are French, luckily my foreigner status granted me immunity.
Sounds scary? It is. But worth every minute. If you are short of time, or have a toddler
or two in tow, focus your energies on floors 1 and 3. When I was there, the first floor
had a range of African waxed cottons at 2.50 euro per metre and gorgeous plaids from
Madras at 6.95 a metre.
The 3rd floor held fabric from many regions of France including heavy Provencal
cottons and striped canvas from the south. There's also spectacular toile de jouy, linen
tickings and amazing embossed velour. The prices for all of these fabrics were 4 or 5 times
less than what they would cost here in Australia.
I was also lucky to find packets of the original
Cholet teatowels - 6 for 17 euros and rolls of heavy linen used for sheeting and napery for 5 euros
a metre. Frankly, if the Frenchman hadn't come in and dragged me out I think I'd still be there.